Originally posted on Wednesday, September 21, 2005, 08:26 AM NST.
2005? What is this?
We really like Venice, but we’re lucky that we came at the right time…
It seems sort of surreal – we’ve said a few times to each other stuff like “it seems like a movie set.” The main thoroughfares are water, the “Grand Canal” winds through the city, cutting it into two halves – it’s taken over early in the morning by many boats, but the granddaddy is the Water Taxi (sometimes referred to in our travel guides as a water bus – a great name – it’s slow, clumsy, noisy and sometimes standing room only).

The actual streets are tiny. The main drags alongside the canals are wide, up to 20 feet, but they can end abruptly at water, or turn suddenly at a building. Once away from the canal, they average just about 8 feet wide, and then quite often shrink down in random increments to 3 or 4 feet. These paths twist and turn and intersect like they were designed by a mad man. It really is a maze – extremely easy to get lost unless you’re looking at your map the whole time. The girl at the hotel actually seemed surprised that we found them without problems. Walking is like a game – more-so fun and a general test of navigational skills than anything else.

Like any city, there are a variety of smells – most often subtle. In the morning and evening, it’s food – bread, pizza, etc. Near the larger canals, it’s a hint of sewer. Sometimes it’s cigar smoke. None are too powerful that another can’t overtake it within a few steps. This is supposed to be a good time of year for that.

And the wet season is on the way – the walking platforms are coming out. These appear to be laid end-to-end in select spots of the city so people can get around at high tide. The platforms are a piece of thick plywood, about 3 to 4 feet wide by 12 long, with metal horse-shoe legs underneath standing about 18″ off the ground and an asphalt-like top. It seems like they mainly use them around the canals – I guess those are the areas where the water rises first and are also the busiest. The locals apparently have boots, and the hotels give them out to guests.

But it all seems amazingly clean, organized and safe. The only time you see city workers is in the morning, sweeping and collecting every one’s bagged garbage. We’ve seen two police officers since we arrived. It seems safe when walking, even in the night – you see women and children on their own (think about how almost everywhere you go at night is a dimly lit alley).

I think that if I was a city-planner-in-training here, it would all confuse the hell out of me.
Randy
PS. Kim wanted to say that the ice cream is yummy, and sometimes dogs poop on the street – it’s difficult to incorporate that with anything else.